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Author: Subject: The New Pit
WholeHawg
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[*] posted on 12-21-2007 at 05:04 PM
The New Pit


As some of you already know I am working on a revamp of the Hawg Pit so I thought I would start a running thread on my progress. I encourage any questions, comments opinions or suggestions. Part of the reason I am posting this is to get some extra eyes on the project.



The design philosophy here is more of function over form, I play several flight sims so I needed a cockpit layout that had accommodations for modern avionics panels i.e. MFDs ICPs etc. In addition to this I play a host of FPS and RTS games and I have found playing anything besides a flight sim from a cockpit to be undesirable.



With these thing in mind I came up with a design that allow me to use a single computer and monitor for all of the above.



I have mounted the monitor on a “lazy susan” so it can swing 180 deg to face my office area on one side and the cockpit on the other. While this design is very functional it presents some limitations as to the esthetics of the external design.



These factors coupled with certain limitations relating to my skill as a wood and metal worker, lead me to a design that doesn’t follow any one particular aircraft past or present. It is a generic sim pit, which could be considered a caricature of several Navy fighters rolled into one.





……..pics and details to come.




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[*] posted on 12-21-2007 at 08:00 PM


Cant wait to see the pics. :frog: I hope the design for function means a barley pop holder.



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[*] posted on 12-21-2007 at 10:23 PM


How about a roll out tray, like you see on many desks for a keyboard, that would slide out in front of you to act as a desk for a mouse pad and keyboard for those FPS games? It could also double as a map board for your IL-2 and other flight sims. It would be stowed under the front panel when not needed.

I believe that all of the US Navy planes of WWII had such an arrangement for their plotting boards.




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WholeHawg
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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 05:34 AM


It will have a place for a beverage!!! that was pretty much the first thing I worked into the design, infact I am trying to get a mini fridge installed......no really I am :)

Razor.....That is an excellent idea and one that I tried to make work in version one of the pit. The problem was there is just too many knobs and leavers in the way so the tray has to be like a transformer to fold and unfold in a tidy yet effective manner. I did shoe horn a table-like surface in at one point to see if it was worth exploring the option further and came to the conclusion that it simply was not suited for anything but flying. It was wierd feeling like riding someone elses bike ya know?




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WholeHawg
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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 05:35 AM







Here is a shot of the Lazy Susan setup and the currnet break down status




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WholeHawg
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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 05:47 AM





This is the Keyboard emulator. Its a Gamma Ray 256. I tried this and a X-Keys and found this to be MUCH simpler to wire up. X-keys needs you to solder diodes in to every circuit to ensure that they work, and I would always get fantom switch functions n a word U...G...L...Y... The Gamma ray rig works like a champ and I didnt even have to solder a thing to get it to work. It works with switches that Make-Break in any order, momentary or constant contact. Also most rotary encoders, incrimental and absolute (gray).

For those that dont know a rotary encoder regiseters a switch pulse for a certain degree of rotation on a set of contacts if turned one way and a pulse on a different set for rotation in the opposit direction. This is handy for say a trim control.

You can see my trim control knobs just behind my throttle.

FYI the phone punch down was an idea that I ended up not using but never removed from the board :)




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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 05:51 AM


Wow!



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WholeHawg
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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 05:52 AM






Now this little guy is pretty cool. Its an LCD from CrystalFontz. With almost no wireing and a brief internet search, I found a software widget that that would link into Team Speak and display who was on channel and who was talking. it also has a back light . (thats the red an white wire you see at the bottom.)




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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 06:51 AM


It looks like your head is way too far away from the screen for TiR to work well. How the heck do you see anything like a dot from that distance?!! Great looking pit though. I really like the trim knobs behind the throttle.:thumbup: Just like the real thing.



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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 06:55 AM


What I want to know is how you keep from getting electrocuted! :shocked:



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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 09:37 AM


Very Cool Hawg!!! Please Keep Posting Pics As the Pit Develops... :thumbup:






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WholeHawg
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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 01:40 PM




Razor you are correct again. Which is why the TIR is mounted to an arm that extends from the top of the canopy, (which is removed at the moment). If you recall last week I said the TIR was out of action, well this is why.

Also one of the Issues I am going to address in the next version is I am going to put the Lazy Susan on a slider to gets the screen closer to me. So again an excellent observation.

This pic is about 2 years old and was a pre Version 1 beta of the Pit. You can see my old TIR on the boom arm at the top of the pic.




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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 03:57 PM


Very cool indeed Hawg! :thumbup: Can't wait to see the finished product. With the canopy closed, the sound must be awesome inside!



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[*] posted on 12-22-2007 at 06:29 PM


Yes the sound rocks with the canopy shut!! I put the Sub right under the seat and crank the base up. The whole rig vibrates when you pull the trigger!! :flamethrower:



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[*] posted on 12-25-2007 at 02:46 AM




Here we go so far. Got most of the bulk heads up and started running the stringers. I am going to try putting the sheetmetal on next :)




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[*] posted on 12-25-2007 at 03:46 AM


Did you cut all that yourself?



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[*] posted on 12-25-2007 at 05:00 AM


I caught a glimpse of Hawg working on his project on the web...



All jokes aside :bow: I want to see how the sheetmetal part goes and are you going to simulate rivits?
My wife is going to hate you, but I just have to have one of my own...







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[*] posted on 12-25-2007 at 03:18 PM


Yes I cut it all my self :)

I am a little curious how the sheet metal is going to work as well. I did a few tests and I think I can pull it off the way I want but we'll see.
And I am not going to simulate rivets I am going to rivet to the stringers with pop rivets, I found some that dont pull through the wood.




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[*] posted on 12-25-2007 at 05:06 PM


That is really nice. Where is the barley pop holder? :rotfl:



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[*] posted on 12-25-2007 at 05:58 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by WholeHawg
And I am not going to simulate rivets I am going to rivet to the stringers with pop rivets, I found some that dont pull through the wood.



I cannot wait to see and learn... :thumbup:


My Pit is still in development - concept drawing...








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[*] posted on 12-26-2007 at 04:58 AM


Hi all,

Very nice Hawg!! I have worked with Aluminum for quite some time now and my suggestion would be to get Aluminum rivets with and Aluminum self-plugging (friction lock) blind rivets. When you buy them buy them with a long grip range about as wide as the wood you’re setting them into. Then use the Aluminum self-plugging (friction lock) blind rivets with a steel washer on the backside of the wood. Stick the rivet in the hole, slide on the steel washer and set it! Works nice and is very strong. The washer will displace all the pressure and it will not pull through the wood.





Just make sure your grip range is not to long or to short.




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[*] posted on 12-26-2007 at 05:02 AM


Hi,

Oh, and you may want to place a washer between the wood and the sheet metal if it makes an indent around the rivet location when you set it. Try it without first but if your planning on using 1/4 inch rivets you will have to give it some kind of backing like a washer between the wood and sheet metal.




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[*] posted on 12-26-2007 at 05:07 AM


Very cool Cobra






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[*] posted on 12-26-2007 at 05:11 AM


PS These do breakoff flush and look like a soild rivet which I would assume is the look you would be going for. Make sure you get the Aluminum rivet with an aluminum stem because a steel stem will crush the wood to much, to strong.



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[*] posted on 12-26-2007 at 02:32 PM


Yeah I am using the Aluminum kind and I thought of adding a washer to the backing because there is a bit of cracking that occurs when I pop them.

Do you know a good place to get the locking kind? Home Depot doesnt have a wide selection of rivets :) just steel or aluminum.




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